How to paint a swimming pool with epoxy paint
July 24 2014
SWIMMING POOL PROCEDURE GUIDE FOR APPLICATORS
Read in conjunction with technical data sheets and bulletins.
Written by David King from MODERN MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS NZ LTD.
POOL EVALUATION:
There are several considerations that need to be made before one proceeds in submitting a quotation to recoat a swimming pool.
Establish the type of pool construction. a: Fiberglass
b: Textured plaster.
c: Concrete plaster.
d: Inner pool liner.
Each of these categories, require a different level of preparation.
Establish the layout of the pool and whether the pool tank could be affected by a water table, being the level of ground water, eg: on a flat low section or in a valley where drainage is poor or on sloping ground or a raised section where under pool drainage coils have been installed, allowing water to drain away from the pool tank.
Popping’ a pool out of the ground, or allowing the pool to float once it is empty, is an occurrence that does happen from time to time.
This can be avoided if the pool has an operative hydrostatic valve in the floor of the pool, which will allow the water pressure to equalize as one attempts to empty the pool.
This would be evident by visual signs of discoloured water seeping from the valve.
Ensure you discuss with the Owner if in doubt, and make sure either the Customers or your insurance policy is covered.
A signed contract can contain waiver clauses, putting the onus on the pool owner should this happen.
PREPARATION:
Establish with the pool owner, who is going to empty the pool.
Back washing with the filtration system is not a satisfactory method and a single phase submersible pump should be hired.
Check where you are going to put the pool water and the consequence of such a large volume of water being drained onto open ground.
A small diameter drainage hose, can fit into the drains around a house,
Whereas a large diameter submersible will require enough hose to take out to a storm water outlet.
There may be issues with the Council about discharge water so be aware, if one cannot dispose of discretely.
FIBREGLASS:
Before the pool is emptied, check the surface for any areas of black spot.
If this is present, it means that the gelcoat has broken down, allowing chlorinated water to enter the fibres and react with the cobalt in the styrene’s, causing black spots.
Take a note of these areas, and inspect when the pool is empty to ensure the area has not become ‘spongy’ and flexible.
Lightly abrade the entire surface of the pool, ensuring that you don’t remove too much gel coat and exposing any fibres.
If the gelcoat has broken down prior to emptying, then advise the owner that
These areas may need a fiberglass patch repair.
Do not proceed with painting until this has been completed.
When pool surface has been abraded and roughened to key the surface, wash thoroughly with a waterblaster and detergent degreaser.
DO NOT APPLY ACID FOR CLEANING PURPOSES.
Wet vacuum pool and allow to dry out thoroughly before coating.
TEXTURED PLASTER:
Marble, Quartzon, Riverstone, Diamond Brite plaster pools, to name a few, require the utmost care when preparing for coating.
These plasters are porous, and over time the chlorine erodes the surface to such an extent, that sometimes it will go right back to the concrete base, and this can become visible.
This degradation can be accelerated by owners shocking the pool with a lower pH, to remove staining and algae growth from wintering pools.
When empty, drum the entire surface with a hammer to identify any areas that have detached from the concrete base giving a hollow sound.
Advise the owner, and ask him if they want the area cut out and repaired, or are they satisfied if you coat over the area.
If there are areas on the floor in the shallow end subject to heavy loading from a person’s weight, then it is highly recommended these areas are repaired.
If on the walls or deep end floor, it would be unlikely to become a problem once the coating has been applied.
Check that the plaster has not become too soft, by scraping with a coin or screwdriver.
If the plaster is still relatively firm, then proceed with washing.
If the plaster comes away quite easily, then this will end up in the bottom of the pool when washed by waterblasting, and will leave a rough finish before and after coating.
Advise the owner before coating application and make sure they are aware of the situation.
If plaster has eroded back to the concrete, but is still relatively sound, use a disc grinder with a concave carborundum disc, and feather off the plaster to create a smooth indentation that will not be too visible when coated.
When evaluation and preparation work has been completed wash the pool with a water blaster and degreaser detergent and wet vacuum clean.
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES APPLY ACID TO THESE PLASTER FINISHES.
Once pool substrate is thoroughly dry, proceed with coating application.
CONCRETE PLASTER:
UNPAINTED:
Treat in the same way as you would with the textured plaster above, except
Concrete will be a lot harder, may need the odd hole filled, and perhaps treatment of ’60 seconds’ chlorine solution, to remove any algae.
A thorough water blast wash and wet vacuum to completely remove any traces of the chlorine solution. Allow to dry out thoroughly before coating.
Important: do not allow ’60 second’ solution to dry on the surface.
If it is a new pool, then a single acid etch process is required for new concrete.
If it is an established unpainted pool, DO NOT APPLY ACID TO THE SURFACE.
Acid is only ever applied to a new concrete pool, to degrade the cement layer called laitance, so that a coating can achieve the best adherence to the surface.
Any further acid etching, will continue to degrade the concrete, and will eventually expose the unsightly aggregate.
Diamond grinding or re-plastering the pool will be required to remedy this damage.
POOL LINER:
These are pool inserts, installed in badly cracked or aged pools and are of
A flexible canvas type material cannot be coated with immersion epoxies.
APPLICATION OF RUST-OLEUM 9100 HIGH PERFORMANCE
IMMERSION EPOXY COATING:
Apply with a medium pile roller, pressure pot or airless spray system.
Agitate and stir thoroughly, the base and activator separately before mixing.
Ensure that all solids are off the bottom of the tins and suspended in the liquid components.
Mix the base colour: eg: 9192402 Marlin Blue. 1:1 mix ratio
9102402 Immersion activator.
Product can be partially mixed if applying small quantities, ie: 50% of each tin.
Agitate and stir thoroughly the combined mixture.
Allow mixed material to stand for a 30 minute induction period before applying.
Only add Rust-oleum 165 immersion thinners, 10% maximum, if applying to a new
prepared pool surface, so assist the epoxy to soak into the porous surface.
Use plastic masking tape, to protect any tiles, lights or penetrations.
Do not use paper masking tape.
If applying by roller, load the roller with the maximum amount of coating and spread out, ensuring you maintain as thick a coat as possible.
If warm conditions prevail, do not back roll for too long as this will result in a rough texture.
Apply a coat to the top step on the way into the pool, and a coat on the way out, too ensure a thick layer.
Repeat process when applying the second coat after 24 hours, and a third time if applying an optional third coat.
Make sure there is no dew, condensation leaking water, on the fresh coated surfaces, prior to second and third coat.
If moisture is present, the coating will not adhere and will peel off once pool if filled.
Don’t walk around in the pool during coating in bare feet, as perspiration and body fats from the soles of feet, could affect adhesion.
Perspiration droplets on hot days, can inadvertently contaminate the surface as one is applying and before the coating cover.
If not wiped dry, small round blemishes will appear on the bottom when the pool is filled because the coating has not adhered.
The recommended dry film thickness per coat is 200 microns, and a minimum of two coats is necessary.
To achieve the extra longevity of 400 microns in two coats of a spray application, a 3rd coat is recommended if applying by roller.
SPRAY APPLICATION:
If applying with spray equipment, the same mixing, masking, induction, top step, perspiration and surface moisture instructions all apply as outlined in the above.
It is possible to apply 9100 @ 260 microns wet film, to achieve 200 microns dry film per coat.
Two coats minimum requirement to achieve 400 microns dry film in total.
Thinning the first coat on new surfaces recommended the same as above.
Otherwise, thinning is not required and the Manufacturer prefers that you don’t, in order to achieve the correct film builds.
When applying around the top of the pool, point the gun downwards for the top when applying around the tiles so as not to project overspray over wooden decks and tiles.
9100 by its very nature, can be extremely difficult to be removed once it has cured.
Do not spray apply in windy conditions, if there is the slightest chance of overspray.
FOR BOTH ROLL AND SPRAY APPLICATIONS, REMOVE PLASTIC MASKING TAPE WITHIN 24 HOURS OF COATING COMPLETION.
FAILURE TO DO SO, WILL RESULT IN HAVING TO CUT THE TAPE AWAY DUE TO THE HARDENING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE 9100. AND THIS CAN TAKE SOME TIME.
COMPLETION:
Around your Customers home, be conscious of what is termed, ‘pool etiquette’
park vehicles so that they do not inconvenience any residents.
Use drop sheets on all surfaces if mixing and walking around the pool.
Do not smoke around the open epoxy, and observe OSH regulations when applying class 3 inflammable materials.
Go off the premises at breaks if one is going to smoke.
Ensure you are not walking paint all over their decks and patios.
Do not tip brush cleaning solvents into gardens or behind shrubs.
Have some thinners handy, with a clean rag, should any epoxy get on sensitive surfaces.
Ask the owner if you can use their toilet facilities.
If they are not home and the house secured, be discrete about where you go in their garden.
Loud music and bad language carries, and can ensure you don’t get any recommendations or future work from the owners or their neighbours.
When finished, remove all your tins, masking tape rubbish etc. and leave as you
found when you arrived.